DIARY - Thursday 24th January 2008 The waterfall of Ban Gioc is one of Vietnams most famous sights. It is on the way to the Chinese border and the Minsk and I are humming along. A 120km route is plotted out for today. The Vietnamese used to own all the land around here but China decided to 'borrow' a bit forcefully. Both sides can use the lake but can't land on each others shore. The Vietnamese hate the Chinese and small boys throw stones at the Chinese tourists for sport - they invite me to join in the fun. Riding the Minsk along the road I suddenly find myself laughing out loud. In front of me is the wheel of a small motorcycle and six mattresses horizontal to it. There are bikes laden with chickens and pigs in bamboo cages on the way to market, the riders honking and waving at me as I pass. Round the corner at the side of the road is a security man squatting over a small fire while he guards a crashed bike. The rider being carted off to hospital (of sorts) literally, in the back of a buffalo cart.
For the next few hours I concentrate more on riding, accidents are frequent, especially on bends. The only provision to getting a motorcycle licence is that you buy a bike. Finding animals in the road rounding a corner is usual, seeing lorries come at you or overtaking on blind bends is common. There are so many puppies around it wouldn't be beyond belief to imagine them on the menu at some point or other. It is bitterly cold again and I stop to buy rice cakes in a market. Surrounded by children, this time managing not to make them cry, they all shout 'hello' it is soooo good to hear even the most basic English spoken, I have almost forgotten what it sounds like.