DIARY - Sunday 17th February 2008 Why did I think that going south was going to be, weather wise, any more pleasant? It's not of course, it's either precipitating with vigour or low cloud, visibility nil and distinctly cool. Highway 1a from Hanoi south towards Vinh has to be the worst road ever travelled. Busy, filthy, noisy; lorries blasting on their horns every few seconds, because that is good driving - let the scooters and cyclists know you are going to overtake them. Aghhhhh. I have to do it though or I will never get anywhere at this slow speed.
The scenery it has to be said, on the way to Ninh Bihn is absolutely stunning, even in the cold damp conditions Whilst Halong Bay has limestone peaks thrusting from the water, here they reach for the skies from a sea of green. Water buffaloes, children on bikes who literally squeal with delight, waving enthusiastically when they see me, older people cheerful and friendly. Every bit of Vietnam here, is how the tourist brochures portray the country. Beautiful, lush, stunning. What a change towards Vinh though. Vinh is hardly a sparkling town. Grim grey ugly soviet style buildings only softened by newly planted trees and landscaped lakesides. The town was obliterated in the early 50's by the French, rebuilt and flattened again by the Americans in the early 70's. The Russians helped rebuild it after that, hence the grimness. The people here have suffered so much war damage, both physically and mentally it makes me wonder how they have the energy to summon up a smile and a wave. Being English must be a help though! But Vinh is where the Ho Chi Minh Trail starts, where the supplies were unloaded at the port before being taken south, crossing and re crossing the Laos border. I have to stay firmly on the Vietnamese side though, the last thing I want is trouble with the police, I will have enough of that no doubt later! Talking of the police, I haven't actually seen many, I certainly haven't been stopped, even out of curiosity; unlike Russia where 15 or 20 times a day was normal, interest here is hardly stirred. It's a grim area though, hardly anyone speaks English, even the numerous dogs give me an appraising eye, it's the sort of place I wish I were two. Somebody to watch the back and the bike! The bike and Mr. Honda won't like me for saying this, is the most boring piece of equipment imaginable, it shouts monotony and my fingers keep reaching for a non existent clutch, but it cost $200 and will probably sell for $140. It just rattles along, the brakes work, the engine uses a little oil but the suspension works, what more could you ask for? The Minsk was $500 and sold for $450 so the cost of travel is pretty cheap. I met a Spaniard from Lanzarotte in Ninh Binh, who had come south from China looking for warmer weather before he headed back. He told me it was so cold a few weeks earlier that he couldn't even eat anything on the street. Outside catering had been suspended because of the severe weather conditions. We had a riotous meal together, he was so much fun. He told me I was the first 'traveller' he had met on the road so far, though he had seen many 'tourists'. I will admit here to feeling a glow and gave the scoot a pat to make her feel better, she appreciated that and struggled valiantly up and down the mountain roads when we headed west into the cold and wet again.