DIARY - Wednesday 6th February 2008 It is the eve of Tet and we have had an absolutely brilliant day motorcycling through stunning scenery on challenging roads. Last night I had some real hard thinking to do. Yesterday it had been so unbelievable, so frightening, so exhilarating but another 60kms of even worse road was beyond me. Ok, so I am a failure. I felt one too, all you off roaders would revel in these conditions, but the fear I experienced yesterday will be with me for a long time. I didn't want to push my luck so to speak. So I looked at the map and asked why we couldn't go the 200km loop around instead of the 60km straight run. He looked downcast, but then - he had to get his 'second mum' back in one piece and agreed we would go that way.
The excitement in the air was tangible, riding through the villages people are waving and laughing, a young man on a Honda 100cc shoots past me as I am pootling along looking at the scenery and sends me a cheeky grin. Ouch! No way is he getting away with passing me! I give chase and the Minsk screams into life blue smoke pouring from the exhaust. He turns and looks at me, mimes a head down bum up race and we are off! Hairpin after hairpin I chase him, he might know the road but his style is minimal and reeling him in becomes a mission. If there are any buffalo on the road he gets to hit them first. I pass him and admit to a shout of joy as I leave him in a haze of blue smoke. But then woman sense comes to the fore and I slow down and wave him through. The deed is done. England 1 Vietnam 0. Tang comes up alongside thumbs up, the camaraderie of motorcyclists has no language barrier.
Arriving at the home stay the welcome from the family is warm and spontaneous. Within half an hour I am coerced into planting rice seeds on large sheets of indented polythene and patting them down with mud. I was having such fun, Tang told me because of me joining in they took me into their hearts. All through New Years Eve we ate and drank, small amounts but they can make it last for hours. Sitting on the bamboo mat became purgatory and the wife and I compared ailments, aching legs and backs. I watched the ceremony for welcoming the spirits of the dead back and let the New Year in with the family.
The next day, New Years Day, we had more feasting and drinking to get though before Tang suggested we go with the family to the Temple/Pagoda for the ceremonies there. We would go on the bikes he said. There were 10 of us and 3 bikes. I said I would take the wife on the back of me but no more, so with no more ado, 3 girls got on one scooter and Tang piled 4 children onto his bike, one in front, two on the pillion seat and the last one on having to sit high up on the on the tool box on the rack. It was a sight to frighten the living daylights out of the HSE and the DSA at home and I shall plead not guilty if challenged. We went to the Pagoda, then on to the relatives houses where more food and drink was consumed, with no exceptions I was welcomed with such warmth I felt so humble. The less people have the more they want to share - Mongolian experiences again. There are some more European motorcyclists due to stay tonight but I feel that they have missed out on most of the fun.